TEXTILE, EMBROIDERY & NEEDLEWORK FRAMING
Often very fragile, embroidery and needle art need to be handled carefully, and framed correctly using preventative conservation materials and techniques (non-invasive and reversible).
Our Needlework Framing Services Include:
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Lacing and pinning are the only two options we use for stretching needleworks. They are both conservation methods and completely reversible.
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Colourfast testing of threads (if steam blocking is required)
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Steam blocking
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Dry blocking
Read the article - Things You Need to Know About Framing Your Needlework & Questions to Ask Your Framer
The Process of Framing a Beaded Needlework
Sometimes a frame can take days to complete, even if the design appears to be a simple one. This beautiful antique beaded needlework was brought in with absolutely no border for stretching. First, it needed to be hand stitched to a piece of cotton. Then, several templates were made on the computerized mat cutter to achieve the perfect shape to surround the corners. The template was used as a guide to stretch the needlework so that it was perfectly straight and aligned, showing every single bead. A 100% cotton matboard was cut to be used as a spacer between the stretched needlework and the top mat. Finally, the bevel of the top mat, a rich, leafy green silk-covered mat, was hand painted in gold. The bevel was painted three times for complete coverage, and painted free-hand (unmasked) to make sure the fibres of the silk remain uncoloured.
Correct Stretching of Needlework
 Close-up of the pinning and template used to align the stitches perfectly. |  Using a template to get the pinning perfectly straight. Pinning can take hours to complete. |  The completed pinned cross stitch. |
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 Pinning |  Lacing |  We often use a template when stretching your needlework to ensure it is perfectly straight. |
 Perfectly pinned tiny needleworks. There was minimal border to work with on these pieces. |  |  |
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Incorrect Stretching of Needlework
Incorrect materials and techniques which should never be used for needlework framing -
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MDF or masonite should not be used anywhere inside a needlework framing package - it is highly acidic. If your frame feels unusually heavy, it might be an indication that your needlework is mounted onto MDF or masonite.
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Stapling - can damage and break fibres in fabrics and become rusty.
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Hot glue and epoxy glue - extremely difficult to remove when set, especially in fabric fibres. Only a qualified conservator can remove glue like this, which is a very expensive exercise.
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Tapes – strong double-sided tape contains acid, which can discolour items and leave adhesive residue.
 A few tell-tale signs of incorrect framing. 100% of the time I see a white nylon cord stapled as a hanger, MDF backing and missing felt bumpers, the needlework has been stretched incorrectly. See the bunny in photo 2 to see what was inside. |  This was the stretched work from inside photo 1. Not only was it stapled, but the edges were cut up as well. This is completely unacceptable workmanship. |  A close-up of the bunny's stretching. |
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 |  Double-sided tape residue |  |
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 2026 and this is still going on. These two were glued down onto sticky board by an Adelaide framer who "has been a tradesman (cabinet maker) since before I was born". Another reason why carpenters should not be framers. They are simply not educated to care for delicate pieces. Note also the dirty fingerprints on the top right corners. :( |  |  |
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