TEXTILE, EMBROIDERY & NEEDLEWORK FRAMING

 

Often very fragile, embroidery and needle art needs to be handled carefully, and framed correctly using preventative conservation materials and techniques (non-invasive and reversible). 

Read the article - Things You Need to Know About Framing Your Needlework & Questions to Ask Your Framer

Instructions on "How to Stretch Your Needlework"

Our Needlework Services Include:

 

Correct Stretching of Needlework

Pinned needlework

Pinned needlework

Back of pinned needlework

Back of pinned needlework

Pinned needlework

Pinned needlework

Pinned silk on Alphamat Artcare

Pinned silk on Alphamat Artcare

Laced needlework

Laced needlework

Extending needlework

Extending needlework

Needlework with extensions

Needlework with extensions

Laced needlework

Laced needlework

Correct techniques which are reversible and inert (won’t harm or discolour threads, fabric or ribbons) are -

 

  • Lacing

  • Pinning - with stainless steel, pearl head pins

  • Spacers or matboards should also be used to create an “air-space” in between the items inside the frame and the glazing, so they don’t touch

 

Incorrect Stretching of Needlework

Lacing onto MDF

Lacing onto MDF

Sandwiched against glass

Sandwiched against glass

Stapled onto board

Stapled onto board

Stapled onto wood

Stapled onto wood

Stapled onto wood

Stapled onto wood

Rusty staples into MDF

Rusty staples into MDF

Needlework stapled to MDF

Needlework stapled to MDF

Fabric stapled to MDF

Fabric stapled to MDF

Damage to fabric by stapling

Damage to fabric by stapling

Incorrect stretching of embroidery

Incorrect stretching of embroidery

Incorrect stretching

Incorrect stretching

Incorrect materials and techniques which should never be used for needlework framing - 

 

  • MDF or masonite should not be used anywhere inside a conservation framing package - it is highly acidic. If your frame feels unusually heavy, it might be an indication that your needlework is mounted onto MDF or masonite.

  • Stapling - can damage and break fibres in fabrics and ribbons and become rusty

  • Hot glue and epoxy glue - extremely difficult to remove when set, especially in fabric fibres. Only a qualified conservator can remove glue like this, which is a very expensive exercise.

  • Tapes – strong double-sided tape contains acid, which can discolour items and leave adhesive residue.

 

STEAM BLOCKING

Some needlework comes in to our studio very warped and “parallelogram” shaped. This is quite normal for needlepoint, and is easily rectified.

The first step is to colourfast test the fibres. If the fibres pass the colourfast test and don’t run, then we proceed to steam block the needlepoint. This can take several days, depending on how warped the needlepoint is. The process involves steaming, stretching and drying, and then repeating, until the needlepoint is perfectly straight and dry.

The end result is well worth the wait! 

If the fibres are not colourfast, then dry-blocking is the best option.

 

Fibre testing

Fibre testing

Steam blocking

Steam blocking

The finished needlework

The finished needlework

Before steam blocking

Before steam blocking

Drying after steam blocking

Drying after steam blocking

The finished frame

The finished frame

    Shop 190 Tynte Street, North Adelaide, SA  Phone: 0404083030

    Copyright © 2007 - 2020  Jodie Prymke Fine Art Framing. All Rights Reserved

    Steam blocking